Bulkheads (and stem)

Transfer measurements from the drawing directly to plywood. Draw the curve of the deck by bending a batten through the points at the sheers, the carlins and the centerline.

Also draw the reference line and the center line from the drawings onto each bulkhead, and then carry the lines around to the other side of the bulkhead after cut-out. At assembly, the reference lines will be aligned with the reference line you will draw on the coaming.

Bulkheads two and three are each cut into three separate pieces. The middle sections are temporary; they will be removed when the boat is turned over.

Please note: On bulkheads three and four an optional 1.5" x 3.5" cutout is shown where the coaming meets the bottom plywood. A 2x4 installed between these two bulkheads is intended as an anchor for u-bolt type lifting rings, which you will need for weighing your boat at sanctioned racing events. If you do not intend to race, you may ignore this larger cutout and install a 3/4" x 1" stringer, as will be shown in later photos.

Don't forget to cut out the limbers. These allow water to drain back to the transom.

Completed bulkhead four. You could also cut bulkhead four into three separate pieces, like bulkheads two and three. In this case, however, the center section would be permanently installed.

Coaming

Draw the coaming on plywood just as was done with the bulkheads, including the reference line on both sides. Since the coaming is greater than eight feet long, you will have to scarf or butt join to get the required length. I used a simple butt joint on my boat, with the butt blocks on the inboard side.

Again, don't forget the limbers. These limbers allow water to drain towards the center of the boat.

NOTE: If you choose to build the zero-setback version of the Mini Vee, then be certain to use the correct coaming drawing. If you bought your plans before I added the zero-setback option, and would like to explore this option, contact me and I will provide you with the information.

Further assembly, including temporary pieces at stations two and three.

Before gluing all this together, level the coamings and make sure the bulkheads are square to the coamings. I also anchored the coamings to the sawhorses with steel angle brackets.

Use cleats (approx. 1"x1") to assemble the bulkheads to the coamings (and the stem to bulkhead #1). Fasten with screws and epoxy -- but do not glue the temporary pieces at two and three.

(Before assembly, cut holes in bulkheads, coamings and stem, as seen in photos later in these notes. The holes serve to lighten the boat a little, provide access into the hull for running wires and control cables, and also allow air circulation and drying of the areas under the deck.)

Also, use a piece of scrap to hold the stem at a right angle to bulkhead #1.