Jack Plate

Mount your motor on a jack plate for vertical adjustment. You might want to make one from my plans, which are free. You can see the plans HERE

My jack plate is made from 4"x4" aluminum angle. Besides three inches of vertical adjustment, it also gives the engine another six inches of set-back, which is good for performance, but also makes room for a trim cylinder to be mounted between the motor board and the motor's lower unit.

Steering

These steering bars are made form 1/4" x 2" aluminum bar attached at the back of the engine pan, with a brace to one of the powerhead bolts. Also, I've run my waterpump telltale hose out to the end of the bar for easier viewing.

A bend in the steering bar brings the cable attachement point almost directly opposite the hinge tube on the motor's clamp bracket. This way, as the engine is trimmed up and down, cable tension stays constant.

Trim

My trim system includes a Mercury cylinder attached to the motor and the transom with homebuilt brackets. The bracket on the transom is made from aluminum angle or channel.

A better arrangement is to have the forward end of the cylinder attached to a bracket that is part of the jack plate. This way, as you adjust the jack plate up or down, the entire cylinder moves with it, without changing the geometry of your trim system.

My FREE jack plate plans now include this optional bracket.

The trim bracket on the motor is made from 3/16" x 1" steel bar (stainless would be better). The orange piece wraps around the bottom of the swivel bracket. The bolt at left holds this piece to the motor, while the trim cylinder is attached to bolt on the right.

Short pieces of steel extend upward from each of these bolts and are attached to a third bolt, whose head can be seen at the top of the picture.

More information about building this bracket can be found HERE.

Etc.

I use a 45 lb. deep cycle battery. There are lighter batteries around, of course, but I need the weight anyway -- minimum weight for GT Pro is 650 lbs., including boat, motor, driver and everything else. The battery hold-down is bolted through the coaming.

The battery is used for the electric start and the trim pump. Races start with the boats lined up along the beach, engines off. When the flag drops, you hit the starter and away you go. Actually, you have the option of lining up with your engine idling, in neutral, so electric start is not essential.

The fuel tank is three gallons, more than enough for a twenty-lap race. Two ratchet straps hold it down.

The Mercury trim pump, almost lost among the wires and hoses at upper right, is bolted to the transom.

Cockpit

A foot-operated throttle is required for racing, and highly recommended for the non-racer. Look for the "Hot Foot" or the "Hot Shot" or similar units. This one is a "Lead Foot." They all use the same control cable used with a hand-operated throttle/shifter.

On the right side of the dash is a Tiny Tach tachometer. On the left side is the starter button, with the kill switch (required for racing) and on/off toggle below that.

On the wheel is the trim switch and a lap counter. I have yet to remember to use the lap counter. Too busy driving the boat.

At lower left is the shifter.

Propellers

Best performance will be realized if your engine is jacked up quite high, with the prop shaft perhaps only a couple of inches below the bottom of the boat. For a prop to run at the water's surface like this, you will most likely need "cupped" blades. Cupping is little more that a short curl along the trailing edges (and sometimes the leading edges) of the blades.

Cupping can be seen on the blade at right, and the Ron Hill prop below.

New props can often be ordered cupped. Or a propeller shop should be able to cup one for you. Consider having your prop guy thin down the blades a bit as well, if he does that sort of work.

Or if you're really adventurous, you can do it yourself. I have raced both Mini GT and GT Pro with home-brewed propellers. Aluminum is easiest to work with, but stainless steel isn't as bad as you might think.

If you use an OMC motor, 25-35 hp, on your boat, you will want a 10x15 or 10x17 propeller. The 10x17s may be hard to find, however. I don't think anyone is making them anymore.

Hit the Water!