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Pro Vee Race Boat Plans
Page Five
Pad, Lifting Strakes

Bevel the bottom planking flush with the keel.


The pad is 3/4" thick. I used three layers of 1/4" okoume plywood. The first two layers can be made up of two or three smaller pieces, butt-jointed together. The final layer should be a single piece.

I recommend laminating the pad first before fastening it to the boat. I did this on the boat itself, spreading plastic over the keel and bottom plywood to protect it. Any flat surface that is at least as long as the keel will do, however.

After laminating, carefully trim the sides along full-width part of the pad, ensuring they are straight, square and parelell to each other. Keep the bottom edges of the pad sharp in this full-width section. Sharp edges encourage spray to slip by and exit the hull; rounded edges encourage spray to follow that curve and remain on the hull longer. Spray sliding along your hull equals drag.

The forward, tapered part of the pad is beveled to the angle of the bottom planking. There will a short section where the beveled part transitions into the squared section. Make the transition as smooth as possible -- try to imagine water flowing along these surfaces and avoid any shapes that might impede this flow.

Carefully examine the aft-most four or five feet of the pad to make sure it is dead flat. Mine was not, and some planing and sanding, and ultimately some filling (and more planing and sanding), were required. This is your principal running surface at wide open throttle, so do not neglect your duties here.

Lifting Strakes

I made my lifting strakes about seven feet long, but this has more to do with cramped shop space -- it is difficult for me to rip anything longer than seven feet on my tablesaw. I wouldn't make them any shorter than that, and a full eight feet might be slightly better.

Taper the forward ends flush with the bottom planking. Keep the exposed edge of the strakes sharp so that spray is encouraged to exit the hull.

The spray rails along the sheer are about five feet long, extending from the transom to bulkhead three. Again, keep the exposed edge sharp.

Consider finishing the bottom at this time. See the "Finishing" page for more information.

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