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Pro Vee Race Boat Plans
Page Six
Turn Over, Carlins, Flotation

Time to turn over your hull and admire your work.

The first thing I did after turnover was install a bow eye. I chose the u-bolt type, but the single-bolt variety will work just as well. I drilled my holes from below so that they came through within the lightening hole cut in the stem.

Then I cut and chiseled away enough plywood to accomodate the nuts and backing plate.

I backed up the nuts that came with the u-bolt with Nyloc locking nuts -- you won't be able to get at these nuts later if they should come loose.

If, like me, you neglected to cut limbers in the coaming and the coaming stringers, a few strategically placed holes should be drilled at this time.


The carlin extends from bulkhead one to the transom.

Add glue blocks parallel to the carlins on the inside faces of the coaming in the area that will be underneath the cowling.

I added glue blocks to bulkhead two as well, expecting that I would cover this entire area with deck plywood. In the end I did not install decking over this area.

Also install glue blocks along the upper edge of the transom.


Bevel the framework in preparation for the deck plywood. Most of the work needed will accur at the sheer. The angle of the sheer clamp will constantly change from one part of the boat to another.

One guide that will help is to remember that the thickness of the bottom plywood plus the beveled sheer clamp should equal approximately 3/4", with the final thickness, after the deck is installed, to be about one inch.

But do not be a slave to this outcome. Bevel to the angle required for proper fitting deck plywood.


I filled areas between bulkheads two and three, outboard of the coaming, with two-part pour foam flotation.

I have learned the hard way that you do not want the foam adhering to the hull. After it has cured, the foam will shrink somewhat and is capable of distorting whatever it is bonded to -- such as bottom plywood and coaming.

Line the area with plastic.

Cover the area with plywood or hardboard. Line the underside of the cover with plastic sheeting.

Cut two holes, about four inches in diameter, through which to pour the foam; place the holes closer to the coaming than to the sheer so that they are over the deeper part of the hull. Fasten to the carlin and sheer clamp with a few screws.

The foam may push up against the cover and in some places end up higher than deck level. Grind it down, where necessary, with a belt sander or disc sander.

Before proceeding with the deck plywood, properly seal all bare wood, except those surfaces that the deck will be glued to. You can seal with epoxy or varnish or paint. I chose to use some latex paint that I had on hand.

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