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The Ladder Frame The building jig consists of two 2x4s (at least) 10 feet long or so, and joined with three or more cross-pieces so that the "ladder" is 30" wide as measured to the outside faces of the 2x4s. Use ten-foot long stock, or spike pieces together to use whatever you have on hand. Unlike what you see in the photo, maintain the 30" width throughout the length of the jig to avoid problems later. Set the jig on horses, or give it its own set of 2x4 legs. Roughly level the jig. Mark off the locations of the frames as designated in the plans, taking care to see that these marks are square. That is, make certain that when the frames is attached to the jig at their marks, they will be situated at right angles to the centerline of the boat. |
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Frame Attachment Starting at the location for frame 2, attach short pieces of 2x4 (or other suitable stock) just tall enough so that the plywood bulkheads do not touch the ladder when the frame's beam is resting on top. Locate similar uprights for frames 3 and 4, roughly level to those for frame 2. The uprights for frame 1, however, must be a bit lower -- about a half-inch is plenty. |
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Transom Attachment Uprights for the transom are in two parts, as seen in the photo. Make sure that the 2x2 part in not so tall as to interfere with the plywood tunnel plank when it is installed later. The angled part will provide a place for the transom to rest close to its final position. The two parts can be held together with clamps, as shown, and adjusted up or down as needed, the clamps eventually being replaced with screws. |
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Stem Attachment The uprights for the stem are also made in two parts. Again, keep the 2x2 part low enough so that it will not interfere with the tunnel plank when it is installed. As seen in the photo, I forgot that detail and had to trim them off later. |
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